葛底斯堡“Hiking”掠影

Sep 19, 2010 Comments Off on 葛底斯堡“Hiking”掠影 by

Hopkins CSSA 葛底斯堡“Hiking”掠影

文字/ 王俊

摄影/ 王俊、王浩然

说到美东的历史,则不得不提及葛底斯堡。这个宾州的小镇,在美国内战中发挥着举足轻重的作用。1863年7月初联邦政府George G. Meade将军指挥的北军与Robert E. Lee将军率领的南军共16万人在这鏖战三昼夜,共5万多人阵亡,北军依靠积极防御和坚定信念最终击溃了南军,从而扭转了整个南北战争的战局;同时,这也是总统 Abraham Lincoln发表著名的葛底斯堡演说之地。因而,经典的战场遗迹、肃穆的国家公墓以及浓厚的历史气息使得这个原本默默无闻的小镇声名远扬。 2010年8月15日,在Hopkins CSSA新一届成员的积极组织下,霍普金斯大学华人学生学者一行70余人到这个历史胜地进行了一次颇有意义的Hiking。

尽管清晨刚下过暴雨,天气有些阴,但葛底斯堡小镇显得非常清爽,给人一种肃然的感觉。从Visitor center后面绕过战场博物馆进入林间小道,经过路边绽放的黄白相间的金银花和稀疏树林到达Taneytown Road。左方是光秃的长满小草的山坡,不远处竖立着几座雕像,有哨兵和骑兵,几棵零星的大树下炮车隐现,皆面朝西方,依稀可辨为联邦军密集防守的阵地。一百多年前,南军从西面和北面发动猛烈进攻,北军就是在这里顽强抵抗,Meade将军更是将司令部也移到最前线,鼓舞将士守住了阵地。

不远处竖立着几座雕像,为联邦军密集防守的阵地

穿过司令部遗址前的士兵雕像,沿着Taneytown Road往前,右边矮矮的石砖墙内墓碑林立;这里是Evergreen Cemetery,葛底斯堡战役将士的安息之处。在战争4个月后的葬礼上,总统林肯没有像哈佛校长艾佛瑞特那样长篇累牍,只上台演讲了短短两分钟,则已足已彪炳青史。在演讲处也修建了专门的Lincoln Speech Memorial来纪念这一伟大的事件。


Lincoln Speech Memorial

葛底斯堡的墓地不像其他国家公墓那样树林密集,依靠光影来烘托阴沉的气氛。这里,成千的墓碑沿着山势整齐排布,简单而肃重。灰白色的墓碑静静的立在草坪上,往往只刻着姓氏、出生地和部队编号,很是让人触动。有的墓碑旁种着无名小花,有的墓碑前立着简单的邮筒,寄托着对逝者的思恋;更有的连姓氏也没有,在墓地北面半圆形的纪念广场里,草坪上竖着矮矮的石块围成圈,上面只有简单的编号,或者Unknown X Bodies的字样。

在墓地附近,一个衣着古老服饰,挎着小篮扮成附近村妇的“导游”,生动讲述着这里曾发生过故事,则试图用她的“亲身经历”将听众带入那些个一百多年前的日子。另外,墓地东角一个蓝色镶边的方形字牌,上面淡淡的显示着几行Theodore O’Hara的短诗:

No rumor of the foe’s advance
Now sweeps (swells) upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;

扮成附近村妇的“导游

穿过墓地往东,则是东战场遗址,从Google earth上也能清晰地看到由北往南紧密排布的20多个半圆形的战壕;这里曾发生过悲壮的骑兵遭遇战,死伤无数。印象很深的是战壕边矗立的骑兵像,高大的站台上战马低头长嘶,显得无比勇敢和淡定。抬头仰望,不经意间与它眼神相汇,百年沧桑则化为一瞬,意像恍惚间似乎回到了那个枪炮纷飞的战场。然而耳边却响起了林肯的声音, 那个让这片土地沉静和激动的时刻:

“The brave men, living and dead,

who struggled here, have consecrated it

far above our power to add or detract.

The world will little note nor long remember

what we say here,

but it can never forget

what they did here…”

东战场遗址战马雕像

是的,这是一场伟大的战争,它的伟大不在于北美大陆历史上规模最大,不在于伤亡最惨重;而是将士的英魂赋予了这片土地新的意义,使得这个国度得到自由的新生;也给了活着的人们更多的理想和献身精神。

虽然有些恋恋不舍,但由于担心暴雨的临近,Hopkins CSSA一行选了一条相对比较近的trail,然后原路返回。值得一提的是,这附近的OUTLET也比较有名,品种齐全,折扣不小;所以大部分同学从战场“折返”,纷纷奔向店里大采购。所以总的来说,这次葛底斯堡之行,大家无论从精神上还是物质上都有了蛮大的收获。可爱

2010-8-19

Gettysburg National Military Park (Sunday, August 15)

Finally the hottest days of this summer have (probably) passed, and the Hopkins CSSA is organizing an exciting  outdoor activity just for you!  It will also be another great chance for you to meet your old friends and make new ones.

We are going to tour the Gettysburg National Military Park on Sunday, August 15.   It will be postponed to Sunday, August 22 if the weather conditions make it hard.  Gettysburg National Military Park is not only a breathtaking place but also  a  famous historical  site – the Battle of Gettysburg is the turning point of the American Civil War. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Gettysburg)

This event will be composed of three parts:

1) Hiking the Johnny Reb Trail (3 miles, 2.5 hours);

2) Visiting the Outlet Shoppes at Gettysburg;

3) Self-guide Auto Tour of the Battlefield (24 miles, 3 hours).

We are planning to leave Baltimore at 9:00 am, and arrive at the Park Visitor Center (a large building 200 meters from the park entrance, 717-334-1124) at 10:30 am.  Location of Park Entrance:

1195 Baltimore Pike (Route 97), Gettysburg, PA 17325.

We will meet at the two tents outside the Visitor Center before we start the hiking at around 11:00 am.   After the hiking, you may want to have lunch and visit the Outlet Shoppes, and then complete the Auto Tour.  You can cut the Auto Tour short if running out of time, to drive back at around 6:30pm if you do not want to drive in the dark.

Keep your backpacks in your car, since they are not allowed in the Park Visitor Center and the Bookstore.

*** Transportation, fees and registration

As for other outdoor events, we need the generous help from experienced drivers with reliable cars for rides. To compensate the drivers of costs  fairly, each rider is required to pay $10 to the driver. Hopkins CSSA will make sure that all drivers are paid by the riders.

There is no entrance fee for the park.   Please register ASAP by emailing to activity.hopkinscssa@gmail.com with your info: 

Name;
Affiliation to the Hopkins;
Phone and email;
Driver or rider;
Number of seats you will offer if you drive;
Your living address with zip code (for rider and driver matching).

A good route of choice to take is Baltimore (795) Reisterstown (140) Westminster (Baltimore Pike/97) Gettysburg.   You will enjoy beautiful  rural scenery such as farms, forests, up/down hills and curly country road on your way, especially Route 97, where speed limits may change from 55 to 40 to 35 and 25miles/h and back.  Drive carefully and safely.

*** Parking and tour and hiking guide

There are two big parking lots close to the Park Visitor Center.   Get a map at the Information Desk for the Auto Tour of the Battlefield.   You will need to pay $2 for a Gettysburg Heritage Trail Guide (Boy Scouts of America) at the Bookstore inside the Visitor Center.  Guides to the Johnny Reb Trail starts from page 19 of this brochure.

*** Outlet Shoppes at Gettysburg

At the Outlet Shoppes at Gettysburg (1863 Gettysburg Village Drive Gettysburg, PA  17325), you can shop for your brand name clothes and shoes at reduced prices without paying sale tax.  Coupons are  available for AAA members at the Customer Service Center (next door to the Old Navy).   You can share your friend’s AAA card if you do not have one.

*** Other issues

It is important for riders to keep in close contact with your driver during the activities, so that you will come back in the same car.  In the rare case of changing drivers, please do let your original driver know.

As in all organized outing activities, all participants are required to possess valid medical insurance.

You can find food services at the Park Visitor Center or the Outlet Shoppes.  You can pack a lunch if you like the convenience. Bring bottled water with you when hiking on the trail.

You may want to search the internet for background information on Battle of Gettysburg to help you to  review that part of the US history.

For questions and suggestions, please email to the address proved above as well.

The Hopkins CSSA

August 3, 2010

The Johns Hopkins Chinese Students and Scholars Association (Hopkins CSSA)

Website: www.hopkinscssa.org

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Mailing-list: list@hopkinscssa.org

Email: cssa.johnshopkins@gmail.com

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